Friday - Deiva Marina to Castiglione della Pescaia

Friday, 24th June

Deiva Marina - Grosseto - Castiglione della Pescaia

The Soil Cushion

Waking up at 8 am, shower and pack our baggage.  We head for breakfast!

Very nice dining area with premium cutlery, well, we did find ourselves a 4* hotel.  Breakfast on offer was the usual continental but ordered.  We much prefer the help yourself approach or even better, a good greasy English Breakfast!  Can’t beat a good English Breakfast! Nom nom!

As I haul the bags to the bike, Aimee sorted out the bill and bonjournos!

Everytime I stack the bags I manage to bungie them down a different way.  Yet as the week progresses the firmer and stronger my strapping down becomes.  Aimee cant move much the back, so I use the bag carrying our previously worn underwear (I had to find a better way of saying ‘soiled’, quite sure this was achieved) to cushion aimee’s back from the hard items in the bag.  Aimee was confused why I brought a load of electrical stuff such as wires with bits and bobs.  I wasn’t too sure either, must’ve been a reason.

Cam installed, switched on, and off we go...not before we both do a little dance infront of the camera.  Sweeping back up the valley to join the Autostrade.

Our plan was to travel to Piombino, but during the ride we decide to go that little further so the final road was shorter.

The Grosseto

It was a fair stretch of 270Km, a good 3 hours ride.  I manage to record some tunnels and Autostrade miles.  We stop off at a few stations, at one point we stopped just for some rest and shade!  The heat is a bit too much when wearing all the protective kit.

Beware the service station pit entry lanes in Italy, the lanes are very short.  Some were no longer than 10 metres, so slow down before you enter.  The UK, you have a good time to slow down before entering the actual service station.

We enter Grosseto, which is a nice looking town.  Then we find a sign for Castiglione and head on down.  The ride is very nice and flat, through yellow fields and past some army barracks.  The road actually seems endless, but there are no awkward signs to negotiate!  Just keep following the road until you hit Castiglione della Pescaia.  The way out offered more of a challenge!  Will go into that in Day 6!

We see the sea, and buildings!  Gently ride into the town with Aimee Navigational System repeating to me, Right Side! Right Side!  Thanks Aimee x  J

Hotel Hunting

We do not see any signs of hotels, as we cross a bridge, I notice in my mirror a huge complex with a huge sign shouting ‘Hotel’.  We carry on into the complex of Beachside apartments and hotels inbetween.  Park up and take off my helmet, so hot here!  Apparently we were stuck in a minor heatwave according the the weather channel.

Aimee checks out a hotel, comes back with a sullen expression. And tries a few other hotels as I ride slowly behind panting.  We cant seem to find a hotel, aimee is mildly distressed.  So we decide to go back across the bridge to see what was over there.  Maybe fate was on our side as the other side was a better placement for tourists and not Beach bums.  We find a hotel called Hotel Lucerna.

Learn how to Starfish!

The derobing process

Aimee strikes a deal and I park the bike in the hotel grounds, unpack and heavy the bags upstairs.  Nice hotel with pictures of Bull fighting and the likes.  The room, well, after sleeping in previous high quality, were..OK.  I am interested primarily in a place to sleep and starfish so wasn’t that bothered. So, of course as per our usual habits, we decide to starfish!  You should try it, especially after a 3 hour ride in 35degs heat!  Instructions as per below:

Step 1: De-robe

Step 2: Jump on a bed, lie down

Step 3: Spread legs and arms at equal angles, imitate a starfish.  Facial expressions not required. Not sure what actual Starfish do

Step 4: RELAX!

Tasting the Mediterranean

We are both confused why we did not bring shorts. Bikini or suitable footwear for a beach!  But fearing not, I found a cheap clothing store selling ill-fitting clothes...must be the Italian TK MAX.  I buy a pair of shorts and flip flops, those annoying ‘between your toes sandals’ that make you walk like an alien.  I much prefer the strap around sandals.  Aimee buys a sexy lil number, nice summer dress and bikini.

Back to the hotel, we get dressed and head out to the beach.  Two options, walk across the beach to the populated area with their lielows etc or walk across the riverbed which is dry and sandy.  At the waters edge are kids playing football and not as many people.  We decide the latter!  There are rocks acting as a break and to protect the sand from erosion, we go sit and chill.  I am the first to go swimming as we have belongings.

Off it comes, my T-shirt followed by a white glow that is my unrefined torso reflecting the suns rays, the clouds are confused..hang on, there aint any.  No wonder I cant get a tan...too white damn it!  I hear the screams while mothers cover their kids eyes...It doesn’t last too long before my white hot body is submersed into the Mediterranean.

I swim out quite far, until my feet are not touching the sand.  I do not really like swimming without snorkel... I like to see what I am swimming with.  After 20 mins I paddle back and we swap places, Aimee is reluctant saying it is cold.  There is a nice breeze though.  I assist Aimee by splashing her with water, seems to do the trick!  Aimee stays out for 10 minutes.  As we dry and chill, we watch the people doing things and inparticular the folk selling items on the beach.  We remark at them and the heat, they walk around with at least 10 towels over the shoulder and carrying all manner of goods.  As far as I witnessed, they sold nothing.  I hope they are doing ok!

The ducklings, castle and dodgy cinema

We head for a walk, stop by the hotel to drop off some items. Then head up behind the hotel where we find we have a hotel right in the heart of town.  Shops, ristorantes and a Castle.  We find a ristorante and order some food!  It looks of Bavarian origin, but I am told the Italians of the Alps also dress like those from Munich.  We eat up, pay up and get up. Walking around looking at the goods we promise ourselves an Icecream later on, Icecream becomes a primary objective for the lasting days of the trip!

We find a steep path which looks like it winds to the castle, on the way we pass a dark stone doorway with what looks to be the local cinema.   Showings are a few times a week, I imagine they use Cinefilm and have a darkened hall or old dungeon to show the movies.  We decide to head back down and again promise to go up there later on!

We find a little promenade and find ducklings panicking, then we hear around the corner the distressed shouting of the mother, no doubt telling off her lil’uns!  We round off and head back for a chill out! 

Aimee perspired so much she shrank

At 7pm we head back out to hunt for food!  But become distracted by the castle and find an entrance, looks really old.  Then find ourselves in the grounds which reminds me of Mdina, Rabat, Malta.  Except the streets are steep.  And people live here!  How wonderful, these old buildings are being lived in and kept tidy.  We find the top, where we are blessed with a magnificent view! The view extends far into the distance, hills to the left of us with forest behind the shore line until it meets what looks like another town, possibly Marina di Grosseto followed by an island further on called Monte Argentario.

The Ristorante with Pick and Mix!

We head back down and find a ristorante, Aimee discusses if we can sit outside and we do.  The breeze is still apparent and seems like it is getting stronger as the night progresses.  We are given some pompedoms, for some reason Aimee thinks I said Condoms.  I wonder what was on her mind?  The waitress was shocked that we do not want wine with our food, just table water please! The food took a while but was nice!  Paid up and we decided to venture into the street we had been to earlier to get an icecream.  This place certaintly comes alive in the evening!

The streets are so busy!  The Icecream idea is thrown out for the window for tonight so we wander among the Italians and some Americans.  Aimee spies a candy shop with here hawk like eyes, or extra sensitive buds.  We collect 3 bags worth of sweets, while I am outside waiting, Aimee is struggling with the cashier.  We purchased too much and aimee had to ditch a bag.

We decide now to head back after a short walk along the quayside.

Chill out, I transfer the content of the memory card to my MSI Wind netbook.   Very good Net book by the way, always dependable!  And survived the bumps and maybe the only laptop to travel at 120 mph, probably better than Isle of Man Internet speeds!?

Sleep!  For tomorrow is Icecream hunt! 

                              

Thursday - Mergozzo to Deiva Marina

Thursday, 23rd June

Mergozzo - Genova - Deiva Marina

We had chosen the 'no breakfast' option when booking.  As Aimee settled the bill I was doing the one load down the stairs routine, was heavy and I was sweating already at 9am as I packed the bike up.

Off we went back along the route we came from, after a little disagreement.  But this time I was right..eh Aimee  ;)



Err...That one! (Ci, Ci, Focaccia Graci!)

Through a toll barrier on the Autostrade we stopped off at a station where I reluctantly practiced some Italian as Aimee sat and smirked.  She knew I was feeling uncomfortable, this motivated me to make the most of it, and become the Italian version of Basil Fawlty.  I freaked out however when Aimee decided to order something different and less simple. Aimee kindly stepped in to order her Focaccia and I ordered mine with our drinks.

We decided not to stop until we hit Genova, about 70miles away.  After miles of sitting at speeds I dont want to get into... The bike purring away, tunnel vision and the hurricane like wind buffeting us.  Eventually Aimee nudged me to slow down.  Sign after sign the kilometres to Genova were reducing steadily, I quickly checked the speedometer for a quick km to miles conversion.  Stopped off for a leg stretch before we hit Genova.  There were a family taking pictures, so Aimee offered to take a picture of the family unit.  Had a chat and we moved on.

Motoring at some speed with those Italian bridges where the road is broken up by the annoying metal strips/grids.  Every 2 seconds, the bike slumps and wobbles....then I see a read light!  Red lights aint good, especially when there is an 'oil' symbol lit up in this strange colour.  Confused I back off on the throttle, oil light flickers off but come back on after 10 minutes.  It isnt a real worry, we just need to stop for 10 W 40 Semi Synthetic Oil to top the Ace up.  The Thunderace is known to burn a little oil, and the mileage we have done fully loaded I wasnt that surprised the oil needed topping up!

We come into Genova and stop at a toll barrier, these barriers can be confusing.  The barrier previously they issue you with a ticket.  Arriving at the barriers leaving the toll road you insert the ticket followed by your credit card.  Done!

Genova - Don't leave your bike unattended! 

Entering Genova, we meander through the twists and tunnels we eventually hit the busy city with a Port backdrop.  Full of scooters and beeping cars,  I didnt mind riding in this chaos, the flow is surprising and comforting.  We stop near a car park and ask a local where the hotels are.  He spoke to Aimee in Italian saying "Do not leave the bike or bags unattended, they will be stolen.  And the hotels are near the aquarium".

We find a hotel but Aimee was unsettled by the local gentlemans comments.  I reluctantly agree and we set off further south along the coast to find another town.  This was to be the best decision this day!

Sweeping through tunnels and over valleys, the towns from this height looks very inviting.  The tunnels were long and gave me the chance to appreciate the sound of the Ace, where the optimum sound is achieved at 4,000 rpm.

We actually miss the planned destination and decide to make the next right which would take us to Deiva Marina.

Deiva Marina

The twists and downhill slopes here were wonderful.  The trees and valley in the foreground as we ventured further.  As the road settled we entered the beginnings of a town which we passeed through quickly and entered a seaside area.  Aimee hopped off and asked the first hotel for the prices, we moved on to see if there were any more hotels.  We then found the sea, and a bridge with plenty of hotels in sight.  We decided on crossing the bridge, parking up and trying the hotel 'Lido'.  Aimee returned with EUR120 including breakfast, I was happy, Aimee was happy... We unpacked and entered the hotel to be greeted I assume were the husband and wife who seemed stuck with one word 'Bonjorno'.  Everytime I would pass, an attentive "Bonjorno" would pass the lips even if they had to jump up and leave another room... "Bonjorno".  This folks is what you call "service".

                                           
Again, we starfish for a while!  I have a quick shower and we go off for a wander.  We notice a river bed with a bonfire and wooden effergy with kids running arround throwing bits of wood on it - curious!  Aimee spots an Emu walking around 'doing things', no seriously... An Emu in Italy raoming about a Tuscan riviera... We decided to call it Jack.

Jack

It didnt take us long to walk aroud the village to end up with Jack.  Walked to the beach and had a 'toasted' thing.... Why do Italians like toasting the shit out of everything?
Headed back to the room for a chill out,  Bonjourno!! Bonjourno!! Came the vioces of the attentive staff.  Aimee chills out on the bed while I go and fill up the oil some more to be sure.



Peering Pressure

I make a funnel from an empty water bottle, and while setting up an Italian biker decides to watch me.  This I dislike, trying to ignore the man I spill oil all over the casing and floor....the gentleman leaves, it would seem I satisfied his lust to watch a fellow biker make an arse out of himself.  Or maybe I stroked his 'see someone less mechanically competent than me' mechanical ego.  Anyway, cleaned up the oil and get back to the room to chill until feeding time!

Teatime! (no, Aimee... Not Dinner!)

We get dressed and head out to hunt for food!  We stumble upon a Ristorante called Hotel Clelia.  Very busy and antique looking room, we are seated and order our food.  Ordering just water, not wine with food always brings awkward faces with queston.
The steak is nice, but Aimee finds a leg of some sort in her food.  We contemplate if it is a cockroach leg or not.  Brought to the attention the waiter looks shocked and takes it to the kitchen, leg is identified as a Prawn leg.  They kindly deduct the meal from the bill, much to the annoyance of the cashier whom I think is the mother of the owners.  They always have too much to say don't they...

On the walk back we walk along the river to see Jack and find a crowd gathering, this bonfire turns out to be a John the Baptist Festival.  There is a band passing by behind us as we look at the unlit sticks and still people running around the huge pile of wood.  An Italian group gossiping next to us about how the locals who use the camp site are alot messier and dirtier than the foreigners... Wow, I think this is an online process of spreading worthless gossip...(shudder).  People becoming bored at this unlit fire, so we walk down to the bridge which is closer to our hotel. Nothing happening and the breeze is cold so we head back to the hotel after 10 minutes more of waiting.  Bonjourno!! Bonjourno!!  As we pass the reception to the room.

We relax and sleep!  Tomorrow....where ever, but somewhere south!